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Nov 01, 2023

Spam Soba and Taco Rice—Okinawa’s Cultural Mosaic Makes for a Unique Getaway

For many Americans, Okinawa’s present is overshadowed by its past as the site of

For many Americans, Okinawa's present is overshadowed by its past as the site of one of the bloodiest battles of World War II. For many Okinawans, the past takes center stage, too, though they look back much further, to the distinctive influence of the Ryukyu Kingdom and everything that makes Okinawa and its surrounding islands different from the rest of Japan.

Okinawa was under American administration until 1972, and compared to years past, the U.S. military has a reduced presence, though it still occupies about 18% of Okinawa Island's landmass.

The Ryukyu Kingdom, on the other hand, lasted for 450 years before being formally incorporated into Japan in 1879. During much of that time, it fell under Japan's dominion, yet was allowed to remain largely independent. By doing so, it was able to continue trade with China and other nations as its own entity, even as Japan itself remained closed, creating a maritime loophole of exchange.

Okinawa Prefecture today includes about two-thirds of the more than 100 Ryukyu Islands. Okinawa Island is home to the bulk of its population, with about 1.4 million of the total 1.5 million residents of the prefecture, including Naha, its capital and largest city.

The lush island is studded with palm trees and has a subtropical climate, and is renowned for the longevity of its citizens, while showcasing an often laid-back beach lifestyle that to some is reminiscent of Hawaii. To others, its greatest influence is close neighbor Taiwan. Ultimately, it's a mix, with proudly Ryukyuan roots filtered through the lens of modern Japan, refracted further by mainland China, Taiwan, the U.S., and Polynesia. There's nowhere else like it.

STAY

The Halekulani Okinawa is located on the central western coast of the island. The property brings a Hawaiian touch to the forefront, as seen in its design motifs and amenities, as well as touches such as nightly ukulele performances. The hotel's two towers share a central pool deck, as well as a smaller adults-only pool and pool bar. The resort has direct beach access, as well as a spa with an onsen area. Rooms showcase private balconies with ocean views, sliding doors separating bedroom and living room areas, and white marble bathrooms with large, freestanding soaking tubs.

The Hoshinoya Okinawa opened in July 2020 in Yomitan. The resort is enclosed behind stone Gusuku walls, with the idea that within is a separate enclave sporting a traditional way of life. Massive but minimalist oceanfront suites are steeped in Zen vibes, with low-slung wooden platform beds, lounging nooks, and little if any superfluous furniture or décor. The property features a large, heated outdoor pool and an activity center, where it hosts complimentary activities such as afternoon tea and meditation sessions. The Hoshinoya is also known for its elaborate in-room dining services, such as shabu shabu dinner feasts.

EXPLORE

Okinawa's most well-known historical site is Shuri Castle, the palace of the Ryukyuan Kingdom throughout its rule. It was destroyed in World War II, rebuilt and designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and now recently suffered a catastrophic fire which destroyed it anew. Nearby the castle are the gardens of Shikina-en, or the Ryukyu royal garden.

Okinawa has three national parks offering ample hiking and nature exploration, and elsewhere, getting out on the water is an essential Okinawan activity. As one local told me, "If the ocean is still, we dive; if there are waves, we surf." Zanpa beach features soft, powdery white sand in a small bay with crystal clear waters, and other popular choices include Araha, Sukuji, Yonehara, and Sunset Beach, though there are dozens of candidates.

Okinawa is the birthplace of karate, and at the Halekulani, guests can sign up for a private introductory session led by a renowned Okinawan karate sensei who holds a 7th degree black belt, along with his 10th degree black belt sensei—who happens to be his father and translator. Okinawa is also famous for its pottery, and there are many highly rated shops to browse. Another traditional Okinawan product is awamori, a rice spirit with a six-century history. Many of the large distilleries are open to the public for tastings, such as Higa Shuzo in Yomitan, and Chuko in Naha.

EAT & DRINK

Traditional Ryukyuan eats are meshed with Okinawa's multicultural influences. For instance, Okinawan soba is a version of traditional Japanese soba, with thick flour noodles as opposed to buckwheat noodles; Shimujo and Kenpa Soba Shop are two recommended choices in Naha. Sakamachi Arcade is a food market in Naha with a collection of several dozen small shops and vendors, including those with Chinese and Japanese influences, ranging from gyoza to yakitori.

Around the island, American influence is seen with mash-ups such as hamburger steak curry and taco rice, and with Spam making appearances atop soba or in handheld onigiri format, a la Hawaiian Spam musubi. Try the latter at Banta Cafe, a large outdoor gathering hub for bubble tea and Japanized Western snacks, with terraces leading down to a sandy beach. For an excellent Okinawan omakase sushi experience, visit Aomi. Reserve a counter seat for the full experience from a chef with exceptional technique and a convivial atmosphere that's a departure from the sometimes hushed world of high-end Japanese sushi shops.

El Lequio is a cocktail hub opened by the team behind trendy Tokyo spots such as SG Club, and showcases a stunning, super-long bar from which it serves inventive house libations such as a liquid riff on Okinawan soba. Elsewhere in Naha, visit Bar Daisy for a deep collection of whisky and well-made cocktails. Outside of the city, Sammy's Bar Kiwi features a staggering spirits collection with over 1,500 bottles cramming every nook of the small, beachfront space. Whisky is the emphasis, including private labels and rare casks from Japanese producers.

The writer was hosted by the Halekulani Okinawa and Hoshinoya Okinawa.